Sunday 12 January 2014

A day in portlands Boulderfield...

So the end of this year is fast approaching its now the 8th of December and my thoughts are with trying dry tooling on chalk and rock and bouldering as the temps have dropped a bit. so today it was Dorset and Portland's boulderfield to be the focus for some bouldering accompanying me on this trip was a young guy called Sam Austin who works at my local climbing wall the Cellars situated in fort Purbrook Portsmouth.. He is a good climber with real potential.
we arrived on the isle for 9 am and proceeded to head past the cuttings main cliff and down to boulderfield via the northern approach we headed to the tank boulder for a warm up. We Quickly got through easier problems on the boulder "Tufty" (V2) being the 1st a fun little problem up the arete also "Hard labour" (V1) and "captain cook" (V2) Sam also done "crouching start, Hidden agenda" (V4).. which i skipped as it was my 1st session bouldering all year and wanted to save some energy for a V6 problem.
From the tank boulder we headed to the sunbathers slab home to a few really good quality problems "coronal mass ejection" (V5) being one "lost decade" (V6)
being the other.. Ive tried both these problems the previous winter and not done well on the 1st but got close to the latter.. and this trip was to be the same at the moment i cant get the toe hook beta to stick on "coronal mass ejection" or hold the wild swing on the crimps either... but one i will definitely be back on.. "lost decade i pretty much had dialled just a lack of skin started to hold me back i started to tire so called that one quits but that is my next tick on the list and will go next session for sure..
 
Sam mentioned about getting on the "V for Vendetta" (V6) on the boulder behind while we were there which is quite a powerful start then a couple of crimpy moves so i had a rest then a go at that,1st go managed to latch the 1st hold and make the 2nd but could hit the jug 2nd go failed the same way but 3rd attempt i tried different foot sequence and bang hit it all sold before i knew it was rocking over the lip....yessss
 
I was well happy with getting my 1st V6 on my first boulder session of the season, it was now Sam's turn to get on his problem which is a hard V7 called "Declassified".. awesome powerful problem he had already sussed the moves so just had to hit them all bang on, 1st go he latched the initial moves but come off before the jug then he kept over shooting the 1st hold for about 5 attempts before hitting them all perfect and in that moment he also was rocking over the lip of the boulder... Awesome.
 
A great days Bouldering...
 
 















 

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